I smell terrible.

Here's why: I spent the entirety of my day lost and riding the bus. I don't say this as a complaint. This is a victory smell.

I was placed, twice, at the wrong bus stop. I asked a stranger (in Portuguese) for the right stop, and found it. Then I went to meet a person who wasn't there.

While riding I looked out of the window and wished I had my camera. When I got back to the end of the line (after going to the other one) I said "Oi," again, to Luecy, the attendant who, with so much humor, had directed me the first time I saw her this morning, and made my way to the train.

Sidenote: This is not winter. Outside it is temperate (though inside of a bus--if one is wearing a light sweater as one is wont to do during "winter"--one might do a little sweating), the sun is up from 5 to 18:00, and women are wearing open toe shoes and mid drifts. As an announcement to Brasilians and Texans alike, winter is a season wherein the average temperature is 0 degrees celcius or 32 degrees fairenheit. This is not that. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad that I can wear a t-shirt in "winter," but I'm becoming increasingly concerned about the heat of the summer yet to come.

And we're back. I took the train to Centro, which is as it seems, the hub of Porto Alegre. On my left lay the river, on my right the Public Market (with produce at prices you couldn't beat with a stick), a sort of plaza--like a quaint working man's flea market with big beautiful clocks and cafés and tourists. On several occasions people asked me for directions. I'm super glad I picked a place where I blend in. Of course, even when I understood them, I wasn't much help--but I see good things coming. :-)

Anyway, I made it to Belém Novo (less than 2 hours away and back) in almost 6 hours... Along the way I met a nice family in a store that was also their home, a few old ladies at bus stops, a nice man in an automobile repair shop, and a mom with her two kids. I believe in the kindness (and patience) of strangers.

On the way home, I got off of the bus early. And again, I walked home with only signs in Portuguese to guide the way. I am a champion. I have earned this smell and some new vocabulary words.

Moving on. Tonight I'm going to the movies with Jacqueline and Marcia to see a French film. Sweet. Oh, and before that I'll take a shower.

1 week

I've been here for a week, and I'm still enjoying myself. I'm finally becoming frustrated by the language barrier, but Jacque and Carolina are trying their best to make things clear to me in English while they're teaching me Portuguese. I'm exhausted from translating and studying and going to all of the parks and learning all of the neighborhoods and understanding the accents while I try to cultivate one of my own.

Still, all of these things are beautiful. I live with a woman who loves her daughter more than anything else in the world. I get to see the world through the eyes of an 11 year old--rolly pollys and punch bug, millipedes and BFFs--and I feel grateful for that.

I finally have time to sleep for a full 8 hours, and to read and to write. I have half a section of this house to myself! This week, I will begin Portuguese class and Capoeira class, and I'm pretty excited about regaining my independence (though I'm frightened about taking the bus...).

I'm reading the Alchemist in Portuguese, and while it is slow going, I think it is helping.

The most exciting event of today was our trip to Belem Nova where I will be working. We met Jacque's friend Camillo at his home which sits on top of a hill in front of the river. It is dazzling. The 4 dogs were the most welcoming hosts I've ever met. Okay, I'm off to study. I have to say, a girl could get used to this place.

I wonder if anyone is reading this.

my new minor obsession

These are the Capoeira people from Africanamente.

Host Family

I met my host family and my contact person tonight. They are all lovely people. Jacqueline, the host mother, is a Professor. She writes books about education and social justice! She's elegant and eccentric. I'm looking forward to getting to know her. Her daughter, Carolina, 11, is delightful. She's learning English in school. I'm lucky to be living with an 11-year-old; she'll teach me everything she knows, and she'll make me laugh.

My contact person is also 25. She works in an accounting department for a bank. She's wry and witty, and has a hearty laugh for such a small person. I think we'll get along very well.

Mom, she's an Aquarius, too (February 8th).

On Saturday I'll go to their house in Santana. Apparently, they have a Yorkshire terrier and a swimming pool. Also, it is in a residential area that's a 10 minute walk from shops and bars and restaurants. I'm holding out hope for a bookstore--any kind of bookstore.

Jacqueline has a friend (whose name I don't recall) who is a piano teacher, so maybe I'll be able to practice while I'm here.

So next week, I begin my projects, find a Capoeira class and start Portuguese classes. This may be the single best decision I've ever made in my life.

Capoeira

Capoeira is a graceful and malicious play. I am tempted to spend my Saturdays at Africanamenta Escola de Copoeira Angola learning to play for free. People need to exercise, right? I'm a people... I think I've found a friend to go with me. I believe I'll go.

It was a cafeteria. They, 5 women 5 men stood in a semi cirlce and we, a group of wide eyed exchangees filled in the rest of the circle. It was a rustic room in which we made rhythms with our hands as the players danced/fought within the circle we made for them. Brown and Black and White bodies moved toward and away from one another as if receiving invisible force to their heads or middles or ankles by a gravity more concentrated than wind. Men played with men, women with women and women with men. All of the players had different bodies, some tall some round, some tiny. Each member took his or her place playing music.

The entire experience was cinematic as if each flash of light on spetacles was intentional--slowed down; I could see indivdual dredlocks on the players heads fall and bounce as couch cushion does when depressed and released. And I played, albeit not very gracefully--more like a geriatric attempting a cartwheel.

And then we danced. 40 people clapping at once, although not all together, singing and dancing samba. I feel elated. I'm so lucky to be here.

I've now officially seen Rio

And I'm in Porto Alegre, Brasil.

After nearly 24 hours of traveling, I'm ready for a nap.

Also, airports look just about the same in every big city.

Day of

Yesterday, I picked up the computer that Justin was generous enough to give me. JV checked it out for me, 'cause he's a winner. Also, I got a webcam and a head set. I am now capable of using skype, and you should be too. That way it's free.

I'm leaving this afternoon. I'll be at the airport in 5 hours, and on a plane in 8. Wish me luck, and thanks for all the help.

Packed

I'm packed, but not quite ready to go.

Here's the short list:

Giovanni's Room
Pedagogy of the Oppressed
Les Miserables
Reading Like a Writer
The Art and Craft of Feature Writing.
2 blank journals
2 filled journals.

my carry on might be heavier than my checked luggage...I also packed underwear.

In other news: again, my friends are amazing. My coworkers took me out for drinks/dinner last night, so I got to take pictures of them and see them without their regular professional faces. R got an apprenticeship! H made a special trip to Binny's. JP has made packing, hearth and home feel normal and natural. Everything is falling into place (of course I'm worried about any and everything that could go wrong...), and I'm looking forward to landing on Sunday. Taking off tomorrow is still a little scary. Wish me luck!

Damn, what a great city.

Tracy Chapman

In honor of the concert that I'm going to at the Park West tonight, I hereby title this post Tracy Chapman. And in honor of my childhood, I shall listen to at least one Tracy Chapman song per hour today. Let the nostalgia commence!

Talking 'Bout a Revolution will get me through the post office/marshall's/work day logistics that need to be settled by 2p.

Next challenge: PACKING.

Project

Yesterday, I received a list of projects that I'll probably be a part of. I'm a little nervous, but I'll pretend I'm cool as a cucumber....

I'll be working at a place called AMURT (www.amurt.org.br, just in Portuguese) with groups from the community, victims of violence, exclusion and poverty, the majority of which are women and black people. That project also serves groups of adolescents 18 and older.

According to the program coordinator, I'll be able to learn from them, to listen to their lives, to participate and create workshops, to teach some English....I'll probably be working at AMURT two days a week.

In the rest of the time, I can work in other, smaller, projects that need a volunteer for two afternoons or a day or so. For example:

- CENTRO COMUNITARIO VILA GAUCHA: A project inside the favela with complicated children and adolescents (without rules), in particular with English lesson. That is not an easy project...

- ILHA DOS MARINHEIROS: Project in a island, with the local poor community- lots of woman and adolescents; they organize themselves, there is not a good structure or series of activities, so Maya will have freedom to find the needs and organize workshops/activities/chats that she thinks would be possible/useful for the community! This sounds like a sure fire way to be part of a poor community.

I'll find out my final assignments next week, when I discuss whether I'd be willing to work with children or not.

Penultimate Week/ Address

This week has been perfect. I've worked about 50 hours, I've had many beers. I house sat and walked a dog. One night I slept for a whole 12 hours!

There was a job interview for this camp called Camp of Dreams--http://www.campofdreams.org/-- and I think I'd be in love with it if I got one of two positions. I might just come right back to Chi and stay for a few more years.
CORRECTION: Alamo does allow women to work the floor AND nobody gets commission.

I found out that Alamo Shoes does not allow women to work on the floor. They're only allowed to work at the registers. WTF? That is sexist ya'll! So now I can't shop there. Also, they didn't have the shoes that I want.

I had Turkish dinner which was fantastic. AND Issac was in town. I couldn't have asked for a better time.

I'm rambling. Pertinent info--I now have an address:

if you need it, let me know.

I should be working, so I'm gonna get to that.

Party

Oh, right. I'm going south a week from Saturday. So tomorrow, Liz is throwing me a bye bye Chi party, and then we're going to the Friday Night Drive By. You wanna go? Stop my favorite watering hole--the Poitin Stil @ 1502 W Jarvis--between 7 and sleepy-time. It is just off of the Redline Jarvis stop. Hope to see you.

m.

Verizon

So we're in the age of cell phones and global interconnectedness, but more pertinently, we're in an age of extreme international capitalism. Does it stimulate the global economy to charge Verizon customers $20 per 10 minutes of international roaming cell phone use? I have to assume so, but I'll tell you this: if you want to tell me something, then just text me 'cause that costs $.05 rather than $1.99. It will only cost me $.5o to respond.

Maybe Skype will be my savior.